Pearls are organic gems—created by living molluscs rather than formed in the earth like diamonds or sapphires. This unique origin gives them their distinctive beauty but also makes them more vulnerable to damage than mineral gemstones. With proper care, however, a quality pearl necklace can retain its magnificent lustre for generations, becoming a treasured heirloom.
Understanding Pearl Vulnerability
Unlike most gemstones, pearls are composed primarily of calcium carbonate and conchiolin, an organic protein that binds the nacre layers together. This composition makes them susceptible to:
- Acids: Even mild acids in perfumes, cosmetics, vinegar, and citrus can dissolve the nacre surface.
- Dehydration: Pearls need some moisture to maintain their lustre and can crack if stored in overly dry conditions.
- Abrasion: Softer than most gems (2.5-4.5 on the Mohs scale), pearls scratch easily.
- Heat: Excessive heat can cause pearls to dry out, crack, or discolour.
- Chemicals: Chlorine, ammonia, and harsh cleaning products are particularly damaging.
The golden rule for pearls: "Last on, first off." Put your pearl necklace on after applying all cosmetics, perfumes, and hair products. Remove it before showering, swimming, exercising, or applying any products.
Daily Care Habits
Developing proper habits will significantly extend the life and beauty of your pearl necklace:
After Every Wearing
Gently wipe your pearls with a soft, slightly damp cloth to remove body oils, perspiration, and any residue. This simple step prevents buildup that can dull the lustre over time. Use only water—never soap or cleaners for this daily wipe.
Regular Wearing Benefits Pearls
Interestingly, pearls benefit from being worn regularly. The natural oils from your skin help keep them hydrated and lustrous. A pearl necklace worn weekly will often look better than one stored continuously for years. The key is wearing them correctly and cleaning them after each use.
What to Avoid While Wearing
- Swimming (chlorine in pools, salt in oceans both damage nacre)
- Cooking (heat and acidic food splashes pose risks)
- Housework with cleaning chemicals
- Vigorous exercise (sweat is acidic)
- Direct contact with perfumes and hairsprays
If your pearls accidentally contact perfume or hairspray, immediately wipe them with a damp cloth. Quick action prevents the chemicals from damaging the nacre surface.
Proper Cleaning Methods
Beyond daily wiping, pearls occasionally need deeper cleaning. Always use the gentlest effective method:
For Light Cleaning
- Prepare a solution of lukewarm water with a tiny drop of very mild soap (baby shampoo works well).
- Dip a soft, lint-free cloth in the solution and wring it almost dry.
- Gently wipe each pearl individually, avoiding the string as much as possible.
- Wipe again with a cloth dampened with plain water to remove any soap residue.
- Lay flat on a soft towel to dry completely before storing.
Never Do This
- Submerge pearl necklaces in water (weakens the silk thread)
- Use ultrasonic or steam cleaners
- Apply ammonia-based cleaners (including most glass cleaners)
- Use abrasive cloths, brushes, or scouring materials
- Apply commercial jewellery cleaning solutions not specifically designed for pearls
When it comes to cleaning pearls, less is always more. Simple wiping with a damp cloth handles most situations. Reserve soap solutions for genuine buildup, and always dry thoroughly before storage.
Proper Storage Practices
How you store your pearl necklace directly impacts its longevity:
Ideal Storage Conditions
- Lay flat: Never hang pearl necklaces, as gravity can stretch the silk thread.
- Soft lining: Store in a fabric-lined box or silk pouch, not plastic bags which trap moisture.
- Separate compartment: Keep pearls away from other jewellery to prevent scratching from harder gems and metals.
- Moderate humidity: Avoid both excessive dryness (can crack pearls) and moisture (can damage string).
- Away from heat: Don't store near radiators, in cars, or in direct sunlight.
For Long-Term Storage
If you won't be wearing your pearls for an extended period, take them out every few months for a gentle wipe with a damp cloth. This prevents the nacre from drying out completely. Consider wrapping them in slightly damp (not wet) cotton fabric to maintain appropriate moisture levels.
The Importance of Restringing
Pearl necklaces are traditionally strung on silk thread with knots between each pearl. This prevents pearls from rubbing against each other and, if the strand breaks, stops all pearls from scattering. However, silk naturally stretches and weakens over time.
Signs Your Pearls Need Restringing
- Visible gaps between knots and pearls
- Discoloured or dirty-looking thread
- Loose or stretched sections
- Thread visible between pearls (should be hidden by knots)
- It's been more than two years since last restringing (for frequently worn pieces)
Professional Restringing
Always have pearls restrung by a professional jeweller experienced with pearls. Quality restringing uses silk thread with knots between each pearl, appropriate clasps, and may include a professional cleaning. Expect to pay based on the number of pearls and desired thread quality.
For necklaces worn regularly (weekly or more): restring annually. For occasional wear: every two to three years. For heirloom pieces worn rarely: inspect annually, restring when needed.
Different Pearl Types, Similar Care
While care principles apply to all pearls, some specifics vary:
Freshwater Pearls
Generally more durable due to thicker nacre layers. Can tolerate slightly more handling but still require the same chemical precautions as all pearls.
Akoya Pearls
Classic Japanese saltwater pearls with thinner nacre than freshwater varieties. Handle with extra care and avoid any abrasion.
South Sea and Tahitian Pearls
Larger pearls with thick nacre. Their size makes proper storage especially important to prevent weight-related thread stretching.
When to Seek Professional Help
Consult a pearl specialist if you notice:
- Yellowing or significant discolouration
- Peeling or flaking nacre
- Cracks or chips
- Loose pearls on the strand
- Damage to the clasp
Some damage can be addressed professionally, while other issues indicate the pearl has reached its natural end of life. A specialist can advise on your options.
With consistent, gentle care, your pearl necklace will develop a deeper, more beautiful lustre over time—what experts call a pearl's "orient." These living gems reward proper treatment with decades of stunning beauty.